Brand Focus - Carhartt WIP

The difference between Carhartt & Carhartt WIP + why the brand foundations allow the newer brand to succeed.

Just so there is zero confusion, Carhartt and Carhartt WIP are not the same thing.

Carhartt WIP was inspired by the original Carhartt brand that has been trusted by construction workers for over 120 years.

The difference between Carhartt and Carhartt WIP is that the latter is fashion focussed taking classic workwear silhouettes and updating them with a modern twist. Carhartt WIP was initially created as a different brand for European city kids. Read on to see how it all came about and why this new brand worked.

Before we get into Carhartt WIP, here is a quick rundown of Carhartt.

Carhartt was founded by Hamilton Carhartt in 1889, in Dearborn, Michigan, originally as a furnishings business. According to the Detroit Historical Society Mr Carhartt wanted to expand the business and begin creating and selling his own products. He noticed a gap in the market for high-quality workwear that would hold up over time and so Carhartt was born. The bib overall, Carhartt's first product, was produced by just five employees using two sewing machines. The style remains in production more than a century later(as spotted on today’s cool cats - not me unfortunately), as do other items from the brand’s first decade, including the Chore Coat, which dates back to 1917. He started manufacturing mainly using denim and duck cloth, or canvas, and came up with a slogan: "Honest value for an honest dollar." - if only more brands operated by this idea

(I don’t think you care too much about the period of the 1920s to 1970s but what you need to know is, the world went through some shit. The great depression, a couple of world wars but the little brand from Michigan, was still plodding along expanding its product range and partnering with some pretty big wholesalers here and there.)

Now, the 80s is where it gets interesting because a new group of consumers started to appreciate the brand and quality craftsmanship that Carhartt created. The brand went from mainly being worn by construction workers and tradies (tradesmen for my non-Australians) to now being worn on city blocks and by rappers in both New York City and Los Angeles. 2Pac, Nas, Eazy-E, Naughty By Nature and the Beastie Boys were just some of the artists who started to co-sign Carhartt’s boxy cuts and styles that came to define the oversized aesthetics of ’90s hip-hop (and the 2020s era).

In 1992, The New York Times declared the mustard-brown and hunter-green Carhartt jacket the must-have outerwear for rappers and cool kids in New York City.

"In New York, hip-hoppers prefer their Carhartts mustard brown and hunter green with baggy corduroy pants stuffed into Timberland boots," The Times wrote.  (quick side note, hip-hoppers, one of my favourite ways to refer to rappers)

Carhartt’s street cred was increasing. The traditional workwear became the unofficial uniform for drug dealers & the bad boys, according to the Times.

Carhartt’s trajectory was soon to be changed forever when Edwin Faeh discovered a very well-made and sturdy Carhartt jacket at a flea market. Edwin and his brother Salomée approached the Michigan brand with a deal to represent them in Europe. Wanting to capitalise on Carhartt’s new demographic and supply some of the demand coming from hip-hop fans, skaters and graffiti writers across Europe.

In 1994, Faeh was granted the license to start manufacturing new clothes for these consumers under the label Carhartt WIP. Carhartt WIP stayed true to the origins and brand of Carhartt which is what helped it become successful. The main difference was creating clothing with slightly different fits in order to be more fashion focussed instead of functional focussed.

Carhartt WIP also focussed on the community building of street culture. Before the new millennial had struck over, Carthartt WIP had launched a radio station, BMX & Skate teams.

From an outsider’s perspective, I am taking an educated stab (for my non-Aussiies, a guess) that a key brand value of Carhartt WIP is authenticity. The brand remains true to its roots and the functionality of its clothing, while also embracing a more fashionable aesthetic. This authenticity is reflected in the choice of materials and the construction of each piece, ensuring that they are built to last and withstand the wear and tear of everyday life.

In addition to authenticity, Carhartt WIP values inclusivity and diversity. The brand's collections cater to a wide range of individuals, from streetwear enthusiasts to those in need of reliable workwear. This inclusivity is also reflected in the brand's collaborations with a diverse range of partners, from established fashion houses to up-and-coming artists.

At the heart of the Carhartt WIP brand is a sense of community. The brand hosts events and sponsors initiatives that bring people together, fostering a sense of belonging and connection among its customers who resonate with street culture.

With the recent Carhartt WIP x Marni collaboration, it appears the high-end world is also appreciating not only the craftsmanship of the products but the cult-like community that the brand has built over the years.

Brand learning: 

1 - Quality products always win.
If you create quality products, you’ll attract people outside of your target market who appreciate the craft you put into your product. If the product is really that good, consumers will repurpose or wear it in their own style.

2 - Listen to your consumers.
Without having an ear to the streets, Edwin and Salomée Faeh wouldn’t have seen the opportunity to expand the brand and create Carhartt WIP. Carhartt would have peaked when workwear was on trend. Whereas with Carhartt WIP, they are always in vogue by making fashion-forward wearable products, all year round.

Thanks for reading.